Current Projects

1888 Everett Upright - "Before" front view

1888 Everett Upright - "Before" lower side view

1888 Everett Upright - Accompanying Artist Bench: Stained & Lacquered

1888 Everett Upright:
Pictures of the Evaluation and Improvement Process
taken in our shop

1 – We will remove the pedal board and the pedal cover--before reinstalling, we will take the pedals and cover to the electroplating shop for replating.

2 – Most of the original ivories are in good condition. We will replace about 7 chipped keytops and thoroughly clean and buff the entire set.

3 – We found the action to be very noisy. Part of the solution will involve rebushing all the keys and key buttons.

4 – The original bass strings have lost much dynamic tone, and two bass strings are missing. We will remove these strings and order a complete set of brass-wound bass strings from the string maker.

5 – Much undesirable action noise comes from worn centers and squeaky springs in the wippens. These will be replaced with new wippens.

6 – Hammers, damper pads, and damper lever springs show a lot of wear. We will install new dampers, damper levers, shanks, and butts.

7 – Softening and cracking of the pinblock has resulted in the tuning pins being too loose to sustain pitch. We will need to make and install a new pinblock.

8 – The original stringing scale is still marked on the pinblock. We will use it as a guide for restringing.

9 – With the lid, keybed and pedal-board removed, we can examine the soundboard and bridges for needed repairs. We found that the bass bridge needs to be replaced because of cracks along the pin-lines, and we will shim a couple of cracks in the soundboard.

10 – We placed the action in a special "cradle" on our worktable for examination. We removed sample hammers which will be sent to the supply house for duplication, and we ordered replacement butts, whippens, and stickers. We will install new capstans on the keys.

11 – The legs and other parts will be on our parts rack until the piano is ready for re-assembly. Will be repairing and refinishing only the lid.

12 – We removed the bass strings, and sent them to the string-maker for duplication.

13 – We recorded the treble string sizes on a cardboard "guide." We will use this guide for restringing.

14 – We removed the pressure bar, the treble strings and tuning pins.

15 – We removed the plate bolts and the action bolts. These will be cleaned and polished and stored in position until re-assembly.

16 – Using our ceiling-mounted hoist, we lifted the plate out of the piano.

17 – The plate will be cleaned and stored until re-assembly.

18 – With the soundboard and bridges exposed, we are now able to complete repairs to these parts of the piano.

19 – We removed the pinblock using a skillsaw, a drill and a special jig. For pictures of the pinblock removal and replacement process on this piano, click Replacing an Upright Piano Pinblock.

20 – After removing the soundboard buttons from the bass bridge, we carefully removed the bass bridge with chisels. For pictures of the bass bridge removal and replacement process on this piano, click Recapping an Upright Piano Bass Bridge.

21 – We glued and clamped areas where the soundboard had become loose from the piano frame.

22 – We draped the piano with packing blankets and warmed the soundboard area overnight to accentuate soundboard cracks.

23 – We scraped the old finish from the soundboard and shimmed the cracks with spruce.

24 – We refinished the repaired soundboard with sealer and spar urethane.

25 – We reinstalled the plate and bolted it into place.

26 – We installed the new pinblock.

27 – We installed the new bass bridge.

28 – We installed understring felts and a new serial number.

29 – We restrung and repinned the piano.

30 – We installed the pressure bar and "chipped" the strings to pitch.

31 – We installed four new casters.

32 – The pedals and cover plate that came back from the electroplater will be used in rebuilding the pedal board.

33 – We re-installed the keybed and the legs.

34 – We rebuilt the pedal mechanisms--tightened all screws, replaced felt, cleaned and refinished the wood parts.

35 – We re-installed the pedal board and supporting beam.

36 – We dismantled the action, removing all parts except the hammers, which will be used for positioning the action.

37 – We reconditioned the piano action, installing new parts wherever possible, and repairing faulty used parts which would be re-used.

38 – We drilled a new set of hammer heads and hung them on new shanks and butts. For pictures illustrating this process, click Installing New Hammers & Butts On An Upright Piano.

39 – We glued and clamped areas of damage on the lid.

40 – After stripping the old finish off the lid, we patched damaged areas with colored wood filler.

41 – We installed new wippens, then installed the old stickers using new center pins.

42 – We installed new damper levers and bent the damper wires using selected old damper levers as guides.

43 – We installed new damper pads and regulated the wires so they lifted simultaneously when the sustain pedal is depressed. Then we regulated the damper spoons.

44 – We installed the bridle tapes and regulated the back checks.

45 – We replaced several key buttons that had been eaten by mice.

46 – After replacing chipped keytops and cleaning all keys, we removed the key bushings using wallpaper remover and steam.

47 – We sanded the lid pieces and stained them with Danish Walnut paste stain.

48 – We rebushed the key holes--top and bottom--using Spurlock cauls to ensure that keys would fit snugly on the pins but move with minimum friction.

49 – After installing new key cloth and felt punchings, we installed the keys one section at a time and regulated key heights and leveling, letoff, back check angle and position, and key dip. 

50 – We double-checked the regulation of the action, keys, and pedals, and we tuned the piano to concert pitch. We will re-tune the piano several times in coming weeks before delivery.

51 – To repair extensive damage at the top rear of the piano due to breakup while removing the glued-on lid, we removed a strip of wood with a router, and we installed a strip of replacement wood, painting it black to match the rest of the piano back.

52 – We installed new burlap in two rear panels.

53 – We applied three coats of clear satin lacquer to the lid pieces. We will re-glue the lid onto the piano after the lacquer has dried.

54 – We applied three coats of clear satin lacquer to the lid pieces. We will re-glue the lid onto the piano after the lacquer has dried.

55 – We cleaned and polished the lid hinge and installed the front piece using new screws.

56 – We shaved some wood off the left side of the lower panel so it wouldn't jam when installed, and we applied black stain on the edge.

57 – We checked all regulation adjustments and tuned the piano again.

58 – Ready for delivery!