LATEST UPDATE OF THIS PAGE: 12/28/07

Previous Projects

 

1920 Ivers & Pond Upright #69035

Solid, elegant upright piano with rich, mellow treble tone and an extraordinarily deep bass. Will provide many more years of musical enjoyment. Touch is light and even. Action is efficient and responsive. Beautifully refinished brown mahogany veneer. Original ivory keytops. 53” tall. A great buy! The price reflects our cost of improvements, with complimentary delivery and after-tuning.

IMPROVEMENTS COMPLETED:

Recondition Action--Reshape hammers. Tighten screws. Install new bridle tapes.

Complete regulation, tuning--Install new underkey punchings. Regulate capstans, keyheight and key leveling, letoff, keydip, dampers, spoons, sustain adjustment, raise pitch, tune to A-440.

Refinish--Dismantle, strip, repair veneer, sand. Install new fallboard decal. Apply stain, sealer, lacquer. Remove front edges from all ivory keytops, clean and buff keytops.

SOLD 12/28/07

 

53" Ivers & Pond Upright #69035 (1920) - BEFORE

 

53" Ivers & Pond Upright #69035 (1920) - AFTER

 

Additional Pictures
of the improvement process, taken in our shop

 


1 – After dismantling the piano, we thoroughly cleaned the interior and the strings, and we polished the tuning pins, removing corrosion.


2 – We stripped the old finish off the exterior veneered surfaces of the cabinet.

 


3 –
We also stripped the old finish off all the wood parts.


4 – We repaired damaged areas of the veneered surface.

 


5 –
We sanded all stripped surfaces.


6 – We
applied walnut stain and filler, followed by a coat of sealer.

 


7 – We rebuilt the pedal board, cleaning and lubricating all parts before re-assembly.


8 –
With the pedal board finished, it will be put aside until refinishing is done.

 


9 –
We applied three coats of clear lacquer to all panels.


10 – We applied three coats of clear lacquer to the main cabinet.

 


11 – With the hammer rail and spring rail removed, we tightened all action screws and replaced the bridle tapes, gluing the new ones on the tops of the hammer butts.


12 – While waiting for the glue to dry, we reshaped the hammers using our dremel sander and hand sander.

 


13 –
After re-installing the rails, we installed the new bridle tapes onto the bridle wires.


14 –
After cleaning the surfaces of the keybed and polishing the key pins, we put the cabinet on its back for re-installation of the keybed and the pedal board.

 


15 –
With the action on our workbench, we removed the hammer rail, spring rail and the old bridle tapes. Then we glued new bridle tapes in place.


16 –
While waiting for the glue on the bridle tapes to dry, we reshaped the hammers, using our dremel tool and hand sander.

 


17 –
We re-installed the hammer rail and spring rail, and we installed the new bridle tapes into the bridle wires.


18 – We cleaned the keybed and polished the key pins, and we installed new key cloth and underkey punchings.

 


19 –
We regulated hammer blow distance, capstans, key heights and leveling, letoff, keydip, damper wires, spoons, and sustain adjustment. Then we raised pitch and tuned the piano to A-440. What an improvement in musical tone!


20 – We cleaned and polished the brass hinges, installed nameboard felt, and reassembled the fallboard before installing it into the piano.

 


21 –
We installed the music rest and lid. Finished!


22 –
Close-up of the fallboard decal and keys. These are original ivories, which we could improve by cleaning, buffing, and grinding back the front edges.