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LATEST UPDATE OF THIS PAGE: 12/28/07
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1920 Ivers & Pond Upright #69035
Solid, elegant upright piano with rich, mellow treble tone and an
extraordinarily deep bass. Will
provide many more years of musical enjoyment. Touch is light and
even. Action is efficient and responsive. Beautifully refinished
brown mahogany veneer. Original ivory keytops. 53” tall. A great
buy! The price reflects our cost of improvements, with complimentary
delivery and after-tuning.
IMPROVEMENTS COMPLETED:
Recondition Action--Reshape
hammers. Tighten screws. Install new bridle tapes.
Complete regulation, tuning--Install
new underkey punchings. Regulate capstans, keyheight and key
leveling, letoff, keydip, dampers, spoons, sustain adjustment, raise
pitch, tune to A-440.
Refinish--Dismantle, strip, repair veneer, sand. Install new
fallboard decal. Apply stain, sealer, lacquer. Remove front edges
from all ivory keytops, clean and buff keytops.
SOLD 12/28/07 |
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53" Ivers & Pond
Upright #69035 (1920) - BEFORE
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53" Ivers &
Pond Upright #69035 (1920) - AFTER
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Additional Pictures
of the improvement process, taken in
our shop |
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 1 –
After dismantling the piano, we thoroughly cleaned the interior and
the strings, and we polished the tuning pins, removing corrosion. |
 2 –
We stripped the old finish off the exterior veneered surfaces of the
cabinet. |
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 3 –
We also stripped the old finish off
all the wood parts. |
 4 – We repaired damaged areas of the veneered surface. |
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5 –
We sanded all stripped surfaces. |

6 – We
applied walnut stain and filler,
followed by a coat of sealer. |
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 7 – We rebuilt the pedal board, cleaning and lubricating
all parts before re-assembly. |
 8 –
With the pedal board finished, it
will be put aside until refinishing is done. |
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9 –
We applied three coats of clear
lacquer to all panels. |

10 – We applied three coats of clear lacquer to the main cabinet. |
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11 – With the hammer rail and spring rail removed, we tightened all
action screws and replaced the bridle tapes, gluing the new ones on
the tops of the hammer butts. |

12 – While waiting for the glue to dry, we reshaped the hammers
using our dremel sander and hand sander. |
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13 –
After re-installing the rails, we installed the new bridle tapes
onto the bridle wires. |

14 –
After cleaning the surfaces of the
keybed and polishing the key pins, we put the cabinet on its back
for re-installation of the keybed and the pedal board. |
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15 –
With the action on our workbench, we removed the hammer rail, spring
rail and the old bridle tapes. Then we glued new bridle tapes in
place. |

16 –
While waiting for the glue on the
bridle tapes to dry, we reshaped the hammers, using our dremel tool
and hand sander. |
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17 –
We re-installed the hammer rail and spring rail, and we installed
the new bridle tapes into the bridle wires. |

18 – We cleaned the keybed and polished the key pins, and we
installed new key cloth and underkey punchings. |
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19 –
We regulated hammer blow distance, capstans, key heights and
leveling, letoff, keydip, damper wires, spoons, and sustain
adjustment. Then we raised pitch and tuned the piano to A-440. What
an improvement in musical tone! |

20 – We cleaned and polished the brass hinges, installed nameboard
felt, and reassembled the fallboard before installing it into the
piano. |
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21 –
We installed the music rest and lid. Finished! |

22 –
Close-up of the fallboard decal and
keys. These are original ivories, which we could improve by
cleaning, buffing, and grinding back the front edges. |
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