1 – Plastic keytops had been installed sometime in the recent past. However, the "overhand" on them is too great, so we will replace them with a new set. The fallboard decal will be replaced during the refinishing process.

2 – The Weber Company emblem emblazoned on the plate details milestones in the company's history since its establishment in 1852 by Albert Weber in Manhattan, New York.

3 – The piano's serial number is embossed into the frame.

4 – We prepared a "stringing guide" showing all string guages and the arrangement of loops and tied strings. In restringing, these arrangements must be duplicated exactly.

5 – We unbolted the plate and lifted it out of the piano using our ceiling-mounted winch.

6 – Using specialty tools, we repaired the soundboard cracks by routering them in a v-shaped pattern, and then installing spruce shims that fit perfectly into the routered holes.

7 – Using automotive finishing materials, we primed and refinished the plate a beautiful gold color.

8 – We scraped all the old finish off the soundboard and then sanded it.

9 – Using a special reamer, we reamed all the tuning pin holes. Upon examination, we decided to re-use the original pinblock because it is still in very sound condition. We will be repinning with size 3/0 tuning pins (originals are size 2/0), to ensure uniform torque.

10 – We applied three coats of spar urethane and rubbed it down with very fine compound.

11 – We rebolted the plate in place and installed new understring felts.

12 – Starting at the top treble, we installed a complete set of new strings and pins.

13 – We "subcontracted" stripping the bench, legs, lid, and other panels to a carpenter friend.

14 – After the piano was completely restrung, we could turn our attention to reconditioning the action.

15 – We installed a new set of plastic keytops.

16 – We installed a new set of hammers.

17 – After action reconditioning was complete, we regulated all its adjustments on the bench, using our special regulation tools and jigs. After refinishing, we will install the dampers, pedal mechanisms, and "fine-tune" all regulation adjustments before tuning the piano.

18 – We stripped and sanded the piano cabinet, making repairs to the veneer where needed. Then we applied a coat of dark walnut stain to give the finish a deep, rich walnut color.

19 – We also stripped, repaired, sanded, and stained the lid and the other veneered parts of the piano. This will now have a couple of days' drying time before we continue with the final finish coats.

20 – We applied sealer and several coats of lacquer to the piano body and each wood surface. Between coats, we allowed sufficient drying time and sanded the surface smooth.

21 – The final lacquer finish has a beautiful satin sheen.

22 – The parts were placed on the parts rack for drying.

23 – We cleaned and polished the brass ferrules that are fastened to the bottom the legs--what a difference this makes!

24 – We cleaned and polished the pedals, pedal rods, locks, and hinges.

25 – We rebuilt the lyre, installing the newly polished pedals and rods, and rebushing the holes with new felt.

26 – We placed the piano in our showroom for its final tuning. When they're dry, we'll install the fallboard, lid and lid prop, and the music rest.

27 – We assembled the fallboard, music rest, lid, and lid prop, and installed all these components back on the piano.

26 – We are proud of this completed project. It should provide many more years of musical enjoyment!

25 – The fallboard decal has a beautiful green interior. It gives the piano a touch of authenticity.

26 – And the refinished bench adds a touch of elegance!